Mama needs some wine shirt, hoodie, tank top, sweater and long sleeve t-shirt

Let’s not forget the funk, though: “Funkin’Fashion” is, says Kouyaté, the spirit of the collections, and the phrase reflects his love of music—particularly the deep grooves of Jimi Hendrix, which, the designer suggests Mama needs some wine shirt, helped him to create his own universe, one in which African and European traditions meet and mingle. (When he’s not designing or listening to Hendrix, Kouyaté will likely be playing guitar himself—or cooking mafé and poulet yassa for his friends and family.) Kouyaté came to fashion in a roundabout way: Asked to design a secondhand shop for a friend, he suggested she fill it with complimentary fashions of his own design. Utterly untrained in the craft, Kouyaté started with knitwear and then slowly approached tailoring, cutting pattern pieces in his room and having them constructed at the local immigrant community center. After he spent two years self-learning, Xuly.Bët was launched in 1991 with two pop-up happenings: The plan was to debut with an all-black collection presented in the Jardin des Tuileries outside a Jean Paul Gaultier show, but the bus carrying the models was stuck in traffic and arrived hours late.

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